PSI is the brainchild of Peter Sisseck, founder of Dominio de Pingus. The project is organised and run by winemaker Pablo Rubio. It’s a sub-regional assemblage of authentic Tinto Finos, recovered from co-op production and re-imagined. These are the old bush-vine holdings of the senior citizens of Ribera del Duero (old peasant guys in the main); heritage genetics of great quality, but which have been making uninspired co-op plonk for decades.

In conjunction with Pablo Rubio, Peter has re-fashioned the viticulture of these old vines, and rejuvenated the old guys’ relationship with their gnarled old plots. These old, low-cropped vines of Tinto Fino have never seen chemicals. They are carefully handled and under-made in large old wood and raw concrete. The idea is to render concentrated old-vine fruit in as delicate and poetic register as possible. ‘Alnardo’ is a lovely tract of land near Peter’s home, and is a mere namesake of the project, not its location. PSI is the 23rd letter of the Greek Alphabet (and also the initials P and Si of the maker, Señor Sisseck).

The nose is spicy with white pepper, licorice, dark cola and rock, and a lovely thread of vegetal balsamics. A wine of great balance – the palate has plenty of warm spice and glides wonderfully without any sticking points. Delightfully low glycerol allows flow without clutter.