The great spirit of Gascony has been made in this part of south-west France for at least seven centuries, predating Cognac—which is made in the Charente Valley three hours to the north—by a century and a half. And yet, while the global appreciation of this rural spirit has long lagged behind its urbane (and well-marketed) cousin, Cyril Laudet and his wife Julie are here to ensure that Armagnac is no longer content to quietly sit by and play second fiddle.