Red-black and purple in colour by candlelight; brighter at luncheon. Primary merlot aromatics of plum, tomato and blueberry. Tobacco and spice creep in, then the aromatic and bouquet amalgam of cured meats, dates, pastrami, and smoked hock bones. Oak’s bouquet is never too extroverted, however; indeed, it is gentle and helping, like flowers in Winter, to borrow from the old Russian phrase. Tension and texture and powdery tannins sweep across and along your palate. Acidity extenuates the sense of length, but then comes a powerful yet polite fruit depth. Reduced red and black berries are at the core, which both propels and draws flavour and interest. Integrated, savoury, but giving; restful yet vital. The fruit flavours ring like a soft, distant bell.