Pale straw in colour, clear and bright. Pear skin and honeysuckle. Thyme and cactus flowers at dawn. Fresh hay just cut and beeswax straight from the hive. This white wine has a striking aromatic quality but without any strident and shrieking aspects. It arrests your olfactory attention in the nicest possible way. Some white peach and some fennel; some red apple and some ripe citrus. Roussanne purity without any of the variety’s oft awkward flabby and broad, flat flavours. This example is pert and upright. Certainly there is some grip and some weight and some texture, but a long lean line of acidity acts as a deep and deeply weighted keel. Flavours of pear juice just squeezed, tropical fruits on the just (just) ripe side of the ledger, citrus and quince.