Goisot's old vine Aligoté is drawn from parcels of 40 and 92 year old vines, planted on the high, cool slopes of an old Chardonnay terroir known as barrémien. This soil is made up of ancient, dense clay, littered with blue-grey fossilised oyster shells, several inches long. This was fermented with its native yeasts and raised entirely in tank. Aligoté is notorious for requiring old vines and the right soils to produce wines of quality. This cuvee ticks both boxes and boy does it show. It has more texture and ripeness than you would normally associate with the variety with preserved lemon rind and even some crunchy stone fruit notes but the overall impression is of a driven, zesty, pulpy, saline wine of enormous energy and chalky drive. A long, electric close. In other words, top drawer Chablis in disguise. Bargain.