Biodynamic. The Auxerre Corps de Garde is cropped from the lieux-dits of Belle Croix, Biaumont, Gondonne, Chaussan and Gueules de Loup, as well as a selection of parcels too small to successfully vinify separately. Across these sites the vine age averages 35 to 40 years and the soils are a mix of both Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone.

The wine is raised exclusively in barrel (including some 500-litre demi muid), one-third new. The name comes from the family’s 14th century guardhouse and cellar that was probably used as a hideout when the village was under attack in the medieval period.

An excellent release here, with pure citrus aromas touched by honey blossom, chamomile, roasted nuts and salinity. There’s a beautiful combination of svelte texture, saline freshness, ripe yellow fruits and subtle phenolic grip. A deftly balanced wine with great presence and linear drive.