The Westgate vineyard in the Grampians is renowned for making some tip-top wines, and this is no exception. It’s ripe and juicy, coming across like strawberry topping after opening, with a burst of raspberry, blackberry, pepper, plum, spice and clove. Like the Meunier, it turns more savoury after some air time, but the fruit never leaves, instead singing at a higher pitch if drunk with some food (I had Hungarian goulash). Despite the 14.5% alcohol, there’s enough acidity and tannin to keep everything balanced.