There’s a newfound purity to Kalleske’s wine these days, and the 2020 is seductively scented with a rumbling of dark fruits, a generous helping of sweet spice and vibrant floral lift. The palate is typically full-throated yet balanced, with gossamer tannins dovetailing with plummy, spicy generosity throughout. Considerable length, too. Kalleske should probably be asking a little more for this wine, but let’s keep that to ourselves for now. It will make many drinkers happy on many levels.