Where previous vintages for the Crudo Chardonnay have come from the red volcanic soils of Tibooburra, more recent bottlings have come off the Denton block, a northwest- facing slope of granitic sand over heavy granite boulders. Luke Lambert notes the Denton soils and aspect bring a cleaner acid line to this wine. With such “perfect” raw materials, Lambert chose to whole bunch press, eschewing any skin contact this year. Otherwise the story, as they say, remains the same: wild yeast fermentation, old oak, no temperature control, zero fining or filtration and only minimal sulphur at bottling, and large (5,000-litre) French oak foudre for maturation. “Pretty hard to stop drinking” might just cover it.