Murdoch Hill’s delicate and fine-boned Sulky Riesling comes from 20-plus-year-old vines on a small, sustainably managed vineyard in Macclesfield in the southern reaches of the Adelaide Hills. These well-established vines lie on ironstone bedrock.

The fruit was picked by hand and pressed as bunches to 1500-litre foudres for spontaneous fermentation. It matured for three months on fine lees before being moved to tank for another two months before bottling. As is usually the case with this wine, winemaker Michael Downer left a lick of residual sugar (4g/L) to balance the naturally high spine of fresh acidity. It's another highly aromatic and succulently textured release. Bursting with springtime freshness, there are bright white florals, mouthwatering melon and citrus notes and a mineral, chalky line that shoots through the palate—a far cry from your average South Australian Riesling.