Nick O'Leary is based just outside Canberra but makes a mean Chardonnay from high-altitude Tumbarumba. The wine is not actually mean, it is tense and restrained with a flinty, struck-match nose and a taut long finish. And it oozes class. Lemon, grapefruit, almond paste and a lovely acid line and all supported by nutty, spicy French oak. Delicious stuff that will undoubtedly improve with age.