Bryan Martin has been working with Sangiovese since 2005, long before it was fashionable in Australia, and his estate vines in Murrumbateman - now over 20 years old - are among the country’s most established. Over the years he’s refined the approach, leaning into more traditional methods borrowed from Tuscany. The fruit spends extended time on skins before maturing slowly in large-format foudre, a style that builds savoury complexity without the distraction of oak.

The 2023 release is a beauty. Black cherry, blood plum and cranberry lead the way, wrapped up with spice, florals, and a thread of dried herbs and tea leaf. It’s lively and elegant, framed by the fine, gravelly tannins and bright acidity that make Sangiovese so compelling at the table. Already delicious, but with the bones to cellar comfortably for a decade or more.

This has become Ravensworth’s most in-demand wine for good reason. It’s a thoughtful, Australian-grown expression that captures the soul of the variety while carving out its own voice. One of the best Sangioveses you’ll find outside of Italy – and proof of Bryan’s patient, steady hand with this notoriously tricky grape.