A 'barranco' is a radical vineyard, and they really are: brown schist, ravine-steep, ultra-high-altitude, no 'soil'to speak of, and quite minerally with lots of quartz. Fruit from old, niggardly centenarian bush-vines, now farmed biodynamically, is now gently handled in large older French oak and concrete eggs. Smells of brick-dust, floral red fruits, pimiento and woodspice. Big never so beautiful - it has space, grace and wisdom exceeding extract and alcohol.