We’re not far off from offering this Hunter icon’s new suite of Semillon and top Hunter Shiraz bottlings. Yet Andrew Thomas’ portfolio of wines is a many-splendoured thing and includes some great choices at the value end of the spectrum. If you are new to this producer’s reds, they are pitched in the ‘Hunter Burgundy’ style, that is, perfumed, supple and balanced—medium instead of full. This highly praised vineyard is located at Sweetwater Ridge in the northern Belford sub-region of the Lower Hunter Valley. The vines were planted in 1998 on soils of red/brown loam over limestone, giving a distinctive floral lift to its wines.

The grapes were destemmed but not crushed, and whole berry fermentation kicked off after a two-day cold soak. After ten days on skins, the wine was pressed off to a selection of new, one, two and three-year-old French hogsheads for 15 months of maturation. Only then are the best barrels selected for blending and bottling, and the wines marry for a further 11 months in a bottle before release.

This is a silky and seductive Shiraz, flush with dark, brooding fruits, pepper spice, wet steel and a touch of anise. It’s juicy and mouthcoating with lovely spiced plum sweetness, a velvety mid-palate and a supple, layered and lengthy close. It’s a classy follow-up to 2020 and offers terrific value.