Oubliés means forgotten, and this wine is a blend of vineyards that, contrary to Jean-Marie Guffen’s opinion, were not included in Pouilly-Fuissé’s 2020 1er Cru classification. It includes fruit from La Côte and Les Croux—as well as a part of Haut de Roche in Vergisson and Les Vernays and Sur la Fontaine from Fuissé. All are high-altitude terroirs with western or northern exposures and are sites that Guffens believes represent “the future of Burgundy wines in the face of global warming”. Let’s see who has the last laugh.

A quarter of the juice was aged in new oak, and it was raised for seven months in barrel. A beautifully tailored palate combines silky suppleness, a lick of sweet spice and fine energy, tapering to a chalk-infused finish.