Suenen crafts just a single 600-litre demi-muid of this cuvée. It originates from a parcel of particularly low-yielding vines planted in Chouilly’s renowned Le Mont-Aigu terroir near the Cramant border on the Butte de Saran. Now more than 45 years of age, these old vines suffer from fanleaf virus, resulting in tiny leaves, roots and bunches. Coupled with skeletal soils (just 35 cm of topsoil over pure chalk), this results in a deep yet compact expression of Chouilly that is unlike any other. Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness with chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

Suenen’s 2017 fermented naturally and aged for nine months in a single 600-litre Stockinger barrel. It then spent more than five years in bottle before disgorgement in June 2023. Following a dosage trial (the standard practice here), it was topped with 5 g/L. Rippling with texture, complexity and great length, the aromas offer shades of red stone fruits, pain d'épices notes, and dabs of iodine. The intensity on the palate matches the intensity of the perfume; this is a linear, rocky, complex wine with everything buzzing in harmony. Only 860 bottles made.