Pale white-gold; clear, bright and engaging luminescent. Fresh! Red apples- both fruit and skin. And muck. Musk in its many guises and forms: sweet, floral, heavy and powerfully aromatic. Underlying the top notes come citrus and citrus zest, and the blossom of both orange and lime. It seems at one moment too heady, the next too ethereal. It is Riesling in the shadows. And perhaps because of these beguiling aromatics this wine really does provide quite a lot of wine in the glass. There is a lot going on. Acid line and length act like train tracks along which glide mineral salts and sea asparagus, slate and fresh-running Alpine river water from a glacier's melt. It is citric and also succulent; the musk qualities return, enmeshed in the acid structure and the wine's purity and truth.