Pale gold; clear and star-bright. Lemon custard and lemon zest; lanolin and white stone fruits just ripe. Minerals and slate and quartz. Green apple freshly peeled and bath salts liberally dosed. Here we find an acid structure around which a ripe stone fruit and citrus fruit body swathes. A mineral water and rainwater sleekness and quality ease in, yet there’s always a hint of grip and texture. This is a chardonnay that satisfies a Chablis drinker and a chardonnay that pacifies a White Burgundy connoisseur. A white wine that is not so much a roller coaster but a luxury train travelling through attractive and gently undulating countryside, perhaps in the Edwardian era.